2013 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Doosberg Riesling GG
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Tasting notes
A fascinating nose features almond and hazelnut faintly reminiscent of white Burgundy; alkaline, saline marine breeze; saffron; as well as intimations of white peach and Rainier cherry that then lend generously juicy fruit on the wine’s glossy, waxy mid-palate. The palate reprise of marine mineral elements encompasses a mouthwateringly saline, sweet, iodine-tinged savor of fresh scallop, leading to a sensationally sustained finish that succulently layers fruit, nut extracts and mineral elements; glows with peach kernel piquancy; and milks the salivary glands. Even at 13% alcohol, there is a sense of lift – one of several uncanny aspects to the present performance, another one being its sheer success for the vintage. (Since Kühn wines both in this style and at this exalted level have been around for little more than a decade, prognostications of age-ability must be treated as speculative; and in this instance, mine might well prove overly conservative.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The golden-colored 2013 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling trocken Grosse Lage has the intense and concentrated bouquet of a sweet Auslese, displaying super ripe and concentrated tropical fruit aromas such as oranges, peaches, nectarines, cooked quinces, black bread, honey and quartzite. Full-bodied, rich and intense on the palate, this is a big, highly concentrated yet stunningly fine and precise Riesling of great complexity and expression. The tension and vitality is enormous and the confiture flavors are amazing. This is great terroir Riesling from deep quartzite soils and worth to be compared with the finest Condrieus and best dry Riesling Grand Crus from Alsace. The wine was bottled after 13 months in the barrels in December 2014.
Seems a little subdued on the nose though it opens up to some lime fruit. Sweet/sour citrus on the palate and not showing much sign of its age apart from a honeyed (dry) roundness on the finish. Lacks a bit of energy though it is certainly fresh. (JH)