2017 Mount Mary Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
Bernard 76 and 277, I10V1, Mendoza and P58 clones. Dry-grown. The underlying geology at Mount Mary is of Devonian-Silurian age, dating back 400 million years. These rocks range from sandstone and siltstone to mudstone. The parent material is siltstone to mudstone (silty-clay textures). The vines are 30 years old on average. The entire production is barrel-fermented in 30% new and 20% second-fill barrels, the remainder is 3–8 years old. Less-stirring, no malolactic conversion. Aged for 11 months in 30% new French oak barriques with the remainder in older barrels. TA 7.6 g/l, pH 3.25. Organic practices. Just gorgeous from the get-go. Rich, creamy, complex and fresh-fruited, even at this age. Deep, caressing and mouth-watering, with vibrant kumquat zestiness shooting through all that creamy texture. Very long and still youthful. Fabulous balance and at a great moment in its evolution. (JH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Tasting this is a lesson in how effortlessly a top Victoria Chardonnay can age, seemingly without a wrinkle, retaining the dewy complexion of youth. This 2017 barely tastes a day older than the 2022, except that perhaps there is a breath of caramel tucked here and there into the folds of the fruit. There is so much exciting energy in this wine! It whorls in on itself, the acidity driving the shape. Contours that draw you into an amphitheatre of fruit. Blue flowers. Chalk saturated in yuzu. Hard to spit. (TC)
5 Star Wine. Struck match reduction, white peach, lemon pith, melon and jasmine set the scene, before subtle honey and nougat beneath. It has impressive line and purity, focus and precision. The palate is tensile and concentrated, with a burst of preserved lemon, jasmine, and honey framed by pithy phenolics and bright acidity to pull the wine long through the palate. Focus, purity, line. A brilliant expression. Closure: screwcap.