2021 Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills X Omni

99.8% Chardonnay, 0.2% Aligoté sourced from X Omni vineyard. Hand-harvested 8 and 16 September 2021. Rocky Nekia, Gelderman soil over volcanic basalt. Planted between 2014 and 2016. Vines spaced 3.5 x 6 ft, between 475 and 515 ft elevation with 2–10% slopes. Fruit was crushed into the press. Press fractions browned in cold stainless-steel tanks for six hours before a 45 ppm SO 2 addition. Ambient-yeast fermentations began in steel tanks before lots were transferred with solids to a mix of new, once-filled and twice-filled Damy puncheons. Matured for 12 months in oak before being blended and aged for six more months in stainless-steel tank. Final blend is 60% new, 25% once-filled and 15% twice-filled Damy puncheons. Bottled 28 February 2023 under Diam 10. No fining or filtration. TA 8.1, pH 3.1, approximately 40 ppm free SO 2 . Tasted blind. Lots of smoky reduction to the nose. High, crisp acidity and caramelised apple and lemon pith on the palate. A light char to the finish. Needs more air. Added after blind tasting: having experience with these wines, they take forever to come around and are often best on day three. Either wait a few years and/or give this a vigorous double decant. Likely would have showed better with more time in the glass. (SCJ)

The 2021 Chardonnay X Omni Vineyard was raised in 60% new oak and gives off a perfume of lemon curd as well as a nice, rounded touch to its delicate notes of wet asphalt. The palate has an outstanding spine of acidity, where the fruit is rounded with precision and balance. Energetic and seamless at the same time, I want to smell and drink this all day. It has a great, rounded mouthfeel with citrus oils that last for days on the palate. Drink 2025-2040. Seth Morgen Long began making his wines in 2014 and is exclusively dedicated to the production of Willamette Valley Chardonnay. Originally from North Carolina, his family relocated to the Willamette Valley when he was nine. Having worked for Domaine de Montille in 2012 and 2013, he took their model for winemaking and returned to the Willamette Valley. Seth had been making his wines in the Lingua Franca facilities until 2022, when they sold to Constellation. He is currently operating out of Michael Etzel’s space down the road from Beaux Freres, where the wines for this report were tasted in their new tasting room. His style continues to evolve, although the wines are still about purity and focus and are well worth seeking out. I continue believe these are some of the best examples of Chardonnay you can find.

Still in tank, the 2021 Chardonnay X Omni Vineyard already feels complete, boasting a harmonious structure and aromas and flavors that seem to gain amplitude as the wine airs in the glass. It has youthful scents of pear, apple, allspice and crushed shell plus wafts of perfume, and the palate surprises with its powerful, perfumed citrus flavors. It has just enough matchstick quality to add complexity, a luxurious, satiny mouthfeel and tremendous energy.