1997 Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva

Saturated deep red, the darkest color of this set of '97s. Bright but tight on the nose, hinting at black cherry, licorice and camphor; rather austere in a Barolo way. Big, ripe and rich, with plenty of body, superb depth of flavor and a chewy texture. Muscular but not heavy. Finishes with broad, ripe tannins and slow-building, lingering fruit. I would have picked this blind as Barolo.