2013 Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Even at the risk of blunting the proverbial razor blade by employing the expression for a second time, there’s no better way of describing Klaus Peter Keller’s use of the pruning shears in the cool and wet autumn of 2013 to drastically reduce yields for the benefit of extract. In a mysterious way this has led to a composition of floral aromas and a ripe yellow fruit fragrance which can only be described as magical. Lean, taut and fresh the wine shows so much vibrancy on the palate that it is hard to see how in this vintage any other of the estate’s Grosse Gewächse could rival the Hubacker in terms of excitement and energy. But this one really needs to be given time to find its equilibrium. (MS)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 2013 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling trocken is not a wine for easy consumption since the nose already is developing from minute to minute gaining more and more complex. Unusually pure and mineral on the nose, the "Hubi" 2013 offers rather green flavors of limes, herbs, peas, tobacco, and morels along with just a hint of pie-plant. Full-bodied, intense, piquant and penetrating mineral makes this 2013 one of, if not the most, impressive Hubackers Keller ever produced. The combination of finesse and elegance with power and persistence is really fascinating here.
Gorgeous, glorious, molten honey nose, Much more open and charming than the Kirchspiel. Opulent and broad. Then a pungent finish. You can taste the tension – and cossettedly ripe fruit – in every grape. Smoky finish. Real presence on the palate. (JR)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.