2014 Bollinger Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises

After the broad, muscular 2012 and the incisive 2013, Bollinger's 2014 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises represents something of a middle ground, with its charming, suave profile and elegant bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, mandarin oil, praline and buttered toast. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and layered, with impressive depth and density for the vintage but also unusually immediacy for this cuvée, it will offer a broad drinking window. Produced from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines and fermented in old barrels, it represents the ne plus ultra of the Bollinger style.

“How long will we be able to enjoy this treasure? You are well aware that the phylloxera louse can any day crawl under the gate and in a flash destroy the two fragile slabs of Clos Saint-Jacques and Clos Chaudes-Terres in Aÿ. This impermanence makes the wine even more treasured and unique, as if its stratospheric quality weren't reason enough to hold the world's finest Blanc de Noirs in high esteem. Tasted directly after the mellow La Côte aux Enfants from the same vintage, I was prepared for VVF to be beaten for the first time by its sibling wine from the same village. When I finished tasting it was clear that I had just tasted the perfect champagne in its style. The champagne combines the honeyed concentration of a Château d´Yquem with the buttery nutty power and sophisticated richness of a Montrachet from Comte Lafon. But my God, Juhlin, it's Pinot Noir. Yes, but the fabulous creation is more reminiscent of the mentioned wines than of a big red Burgundy this time. I don't really know why 2014 was so perfect for Bollinger. Perhaps one has become even more skilled at maneuvering all the details that give a perfect VVF, or does the old theory apply that naturally masculine Bollinger is often at its best in slightly lighter and elegant vintages? In any case, this is a colossal wine experience! The wine belongs to the small few who act with such self-evident weight that comments and comparisons feel redundant. The color is deep golden and the extremely small bubbles move slowly up through the glass. The bouquet is rich, dense and powerful like a rumbling thunderstorm in the distance. Filled with honey and hazelnut essence and screaming scent of honeysuckle. In the mouth you are met by an oily and creamy essence of dark fruit, 70% chocolate from Domori and licorice with the same grilled lemons and apricot marmalade I find in all Bollinger's wines from 2014. Monumental, long, dense and unreal wide like a parade street in Buenos Aires. Drink soon or wait ten years for the next phase. Just as with La Côte aux Enfants, there is a high risk of tunnel behavior for a few years. Right now pure happiness in a champagne glass.”

“The 2014 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is a stunning, exotic beauty. Silky contours wrap around a core of apricot, tangerine, orange marmalade, spice, ginger, dried flowers and marzipan. The 2014 is a Champagne of real textural breath and intensity. It's a superb wine in a year that presented numerous challenges along the way. I would prefer to cellar this for a few years. In a word: fabulous. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.”