2017 Château Pichon Lalande

After destemming and crushing, the grapes are placed in temperature-controlled wooden or stainless-steel vats. Vatting for 18–24 days with frequent pumpovers. Once blended, the wine is aged for 18 months in oak barrels (Allier and Nevers), a little more than half new, the remainder second-fill. A bit pinched and meagre. For the moment the fruit is submerged in the quite substantial tannic load. Chewy end. (JR)

Tasted blind.  Deep ruby colour. Floral, cool and high-toned aromatics. Fragrant violets and blackcurrant. Compact yet intense, this is bursting with summer-pudding fruit. Darker cassis comes with bright acidity through the mid palate, which finishes fresh but long. The tannins are fairly gentle, allowing the fruit to shine, but there are plenty there for ageing potential. A subtle example that might shine even more when tasted in isolation. (TP)

Dark chocolate shavings against the sun-sweetened damson and blackberry fruits, with notes of crushed earth, saffron, caramel and coffee. Not quite integrated at this stage, but there is smart winemaking on display. The riverside location of Pichon Comtesse meant they were not impacted by the frost unlike so many estates in the 2017 vintage, and the wine has much in common with the 2011 - sculpted and finessed but a little less concentrated than the biggest vintages. 36hl/h yeld, 3.8ph, 60% new oak