2023 Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay

The 2023 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay spent 13 months in 400-liter barrels, less than a third new—a reduction from the norm due to the warm vintage conditions. It opens with an elegantly decadent nose of orchard and stone fruits with creamy, woody flourishes while retaining a laser-like focus. The palate mirrors this pitch-perfect balance, displaying an understated, slow-moving texture enlivened with subtle electricity. It concludes with a round yet stony and intensely long finish that continuously develops nuance and dimension with time in the glass. This is an age-worthy reference point for Chilean Chardonnay. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.

Hot elsewhere in Chile, the 2023 vintage was cool in southerly Traiguén, where this exceptional Chardonnay is produced. Wild fermented, with 25% malolactic and 28% new wood, it’s a stony, savoury delight with good weight and concentration, flavours of dried honey, toast and citrus zest, some crème fraîche and a hint of nectarine sweetness.