2023 Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Pinot Noir

He's arguably better known for the quality of his top Chardonnay, but Pancho Baettig has produced a Pinot Noir that's every bit as good in 2023. Gently fermented with 18% whole bunches, with ageing in one-third new wood, this is the best release yet of Los Primos. Effortlessly structured and complex, it has rose petal aromas, layers of pomegranate and red cherry, spicy tannins and impressive focus and depth.

The 2023 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Pinot Noir leads with an intense yet elegant nose of red and blue fruits, petrichor and orange rinds, leading to a soft, primary and precise palate that balances understated power with lively energy. The finish starts on a juicy, quenching, refreshing note before developing a fine-grained tannic grip with continued aeration. In contrast to the more savory 2022 bottling, I found this a bit more primary and fruit-driven, suggesting it will benefit from additional time in the cellar. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.