2015 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese (1 Star)
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Tasting notes
Last tasted from cask, this delivers a slight botrytis prickle suggestive of candied lemon peel and ginger, along with scents of honey and quince preserves and an aura of white bread reminiscent of how botrytis often announces itself from the great 1971 vintage. The palate is subtly oily and rather viscous but projects an impressively pure sense of quince and peach concentrate, while the zesty, spicy elements anticipated on the nose contribute delightful invigoration without becoming disruptive. An upwelling of nut oils serves for smoky and piquant counterpoint, while hints of lanolin and resin from barrique are decently integrated if in no way synergistic. The finish here pulls out all the stops on the organ, with a resonant, vibratory intensity that bespeaks boundless energy. Thankfully, here is an instance where the influence of oak seems not to have diminished primary juiciness in the least, with the amazing result that a Beerenauslese manages not just to innervate but even to refresh.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese is very clear, fresh and smoky on the nose that displays super fine, ripe, precise and well defined fruit intertwined with very fine slate aromas. This BA has a seamless, highly finessed and delicate texture and is terribly stimulating due to its transparency, finesse and crystallinity. The finish is stimulatingly fine and salty but also complex and frisky, very crystalline. I have rarely tasted such a fine, fresh and digestible BA. The greatest news, however, is: the 375-milliliter bottle sells for 55 Euro ex cellar! Based on the selections of 50,000 vines. Total production: more than 1,000 liters.
About the producer
Markus Molitor is now among the largest privately owned wine estates in the Mosel and also one of the best. With a focus on single-vineyard expressions, the estate produces between 80 and 90 different wines each vintage.