2018 Saarburger Rausch Diabas
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Tasting notes
Just as this year’s Zilliken Grosse Gewächse harbor residual sugar in the upper range of legal Trockenheit, this year’s “Diabas” bottling is at the upper end for Halbtrockenheit, and the level of sweetness here, while barely detectable as such, enhances the wine’s alluringly silken texture (“it’s cashmere now,” remarked Dorothee Zilliken); enriches its succulent apple and white peach fruit; and complements its animatingly bright citricity, without in any way sacrificing transparency to smoky and stony mineral nuances on a vibrant, luscious, mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish. If this isn’t a “great growth,” I’d like to know what is. (I suspect that this “Diabas” will outlive the corresponding Grosses Gewächs; I only hope I get an opportunity to test that hypothesis.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
A vibrant array of limes and honey with notes of dried flowers and pastry. The palate has a smooth, fresh and gently creamy feel with smooth flavors of limes. Drink now.
The 2018 Rausch Diabas is subtle, fresh and stony on the excitingly pure, complex and super bright nose that reflects the partly volcanic (Diabas) terroir. Lush and silky on the palate, this is a gorgeously fruity, juicy, elegant, well-balanced and refined Riesling with a long, salty-piquant, beautifully salty and crunchy finish. A highlight of the vintage here at the Forstmeister's house. Tasted in June 2019.
From a Grosse Lage site but vinified medium dry. Now this wine, with a fair amount of sweetness, has real vitality and drive. Yet it is much more concentrated than the old Kabinett style (of which the Zillkens are such fans). Good for the table? Alsace style! (JR)