2017 Les Vignes Oubliées du Jean-Baptiste Granier Terrasses du Larza

Old-vine plots at 300–400 m elevation. Deep black-purple. Spicy black pepper, subtle clove and attractive, crushed rock, with ripe, mixed black fruit. Intensity of rocky, spicy, savoury flavour, with liquorice, coal smoke and blackberry. The only challenge here is a robust, slightly grainy tannic backbone that probably needs a couple of years to settle. (TJ)