2007 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard

Lemon rind, nectarine oil, baked apple, crushed rock, white flower, quince, and subtle smoky characteristics emerge from the 2007 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard. It also displays that slight greenish hue (that comes from chlorophyll) to its straw color, fabulous fruit, unbelievable texture, and a 40+ second finish. In only a handful of years, Mark Aubert, who received impeccable training at Peter Michael winery, working under Helen Turley, as well as at Colgin and Bryant Family Vineyards, has produced mind-boggling wines under his own label. With the addition of the Hyde Vineyard cuvee, he now produces four Chardonnays as well as two Pinot Noirs. Additional selections should begin to emerge as Aubert is moving away from any consulting business to concentrate on his own winery. His 2008s are candidates for the wines of the vintage, no doubt because of the extraordinarily low yields (his smallest crop to date). This has given the wines an extra level of concentration, which is saying something given the levels of richness achieved in previous vintages. The 2007 Chardonnays confirm the greatness I predicted for them from barrel in 2008. While this was a small crop for Aubert, it was not nearly as tiny as 2008. Aubert prefers to work with the Calera clone of Pinot Noir, although his two vineyards include both the Calera and a suitcase clone from one of Burgundy’s most famous Vosne-Romanee vineyards. Tel. (707) 963-4569; Fax (707) 963-4322

(15.3% alcohol; from a Montrachet clone grown on sandy Goldridge soil) Good bright medium yellow. Pure but subdued nose shows more spices and saline earth tones than fruit today. Then lush and sweet but with a light touch, with a softer impression of acidity than the Ritchie bottling and more stoniness and minerality showing than primary fruit. Finishes chewy, dry and youthfully reticent, with very good length and a touch of warmth. Distinctly Burgundian in its minerality and reserve.