2004 Alban Syrah Lorraine Estate

More layered and concentrated, with incredible depth and richness, the 2004 Syrah Lorraine comes from chalk and flint benefits and sees the standard extended barrel aging regime, with close to 42 months spent in oak. According to John, it’s the wine that’s the most ready to go, no matter the age. It hits all of my sweet spots with its brilliant aromatics, decadent texture and blockbuster finish. Showing traces of the marine-like saltiness that’s found in the Reva, it offers up a smorgasbord of aromas and flavors, with black raspberry, creme de cassis, salted beef and liquid smoke comprising the bulk of the bouquet. Full-bodied, seamless and balanced, with fabulous concentration and nothing out of place, it’s an incredible expression of Syrah that could come from nowhere else. Drinking superbly, it too will have at least another decade of prime drinking. The two Grenache based efforts both come from the original Grenache plantings on the estate which, according to John, were put in because he didn’t know what to do with the vines and was trying to build up cuttings. Moving to the Syrahs, each comes from specific soil types and is named after a family member, with the Reva named after John’s Mother, the Lorraine after his wife, and Seymour’s after his father. All of the Syrahs spend close to 42 months in oak. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com