1988 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut

Disgorged 2011. 72% Pinot Noir. Deep orangey copper colour. Very rich, broad nose (despite the high acid) – exotic spices with a hint of cumin. Even quite delicate on the end, which is bone dry. The magnums and jeroboams of this great, long-lasting vintage were apparently rejected by Bollinger’s UK importers Mentzendorff in favour of 1989! (JR)

Disgorged 7 March 2011. Rainy, late season. 72% Pinot Noir. 17 villages. 66% grands crus. Yield 9,000 kg/ha, initial potential alcohol 9.2%, initial TA 9.4 g/l, pH 2.9, final TA 5.6 g/l, final alcohol 12.1%. Deep gold. Just wonderfully complex, well-integrated nose. The very special quality of this wine just leapt out of the glass. Minerals and enormous depth. Great substance and delicacy too. Absolutely archetypal Bollinger: solid, dry, yet complex and ethereal on the nose. Masses of acidity – still tense. It would be a crime to drink this wine thoughtlessly at a reception; it really does demand concentration, and applause. (JR)

Disgorged 4 May 2010. Rainy, late season. Kauffmann did not give too many details at this stage since we were served this vintage blind. 72% Pinot Noir. 17 villages. 66% grands crus. Yield 9,000 kg/ha, initial potential alcohol 9.2%, TA 9.4 g/l(!), pH 2.9, final TA 5.6 g/l, final alcohol 12.1%. This was clearly a really excellent wine, and so much less austere than most 1988 champagnes that I guessed it was a 1985, although Giles Fallowfield found high acidity and was convinced it was 1988. Mid coppery hue. Putty nose. Very dense and intriguing on the nose. Damp cement aromas. Quite rich on the palate. Round. Vibrant. Long and toasty. A real throat warmer. Much richer than many 1988s. Lovely stuff. 'A very successful vintage for Bollinger', according to J Philipon. (JR)