2010 Syrah Walla Walla Valley

More textbook Walla Walla in character, the 2010 Syrah comes almost all from the Les Collines Vineyard and was aged predominately in neutral oak. Loaded with notions of plum and currant fruit, olive, lavender, pepper and herbal notes, it is medium to full-bodied, supple and shows solid mid-palate concentration. Already delicious and reasonably approachable, it will deliver the goods for 8-10 years, if not longer. Drink now-2020. These top-notch efforts are made by Greg Harrington, with help from assistant winemaker Brandon Moss, and always show the fresher, more edgy and lean side to the region. Normally fermented with varying degrees of whole cluster and aged in neutral oak, they have Old World, classical profiles and will benefit from short-term cellaring. While I’ve been drinking the Rhone blends from this estate for years, this was the first time I’ve been able to taste Greg’s Bordeaux releases. The house style certainly persists and the wines all show firm, concentrated and age-worthy profiles. From a much warmer vintage, Harrington’s 2009s are more voluptuous and textured than the 2010s, yet still play in the same classically styled ball park of the estate. While more approachable today, I think they will have a similar, if not broader, drink window than the 2010s. Time will tell but at the moment, I generally like the 2009s more due to their fruit, yet I still think the tannin quality in the 2010s is better. Tel. (509) 876-2427; www.gramercycellars.com

(vinified with 70% whole clusters): Bright ruby-red. Pure, vibrant nose offers scents of dark berries, minerals, rare steak, violet, black pepper, brown spices, lavender and thyme. Juicy and penetrating, with superb aromatic perfume and clarity to the dark berry, raspberry, smoke, pepper and floral flavors. Harmonious acidity gives the wine a light touch. Finishes with firm but fine-grained tannins and terrific peppery lift. In the classic cooler style of Greg Harrington's wines and very strong for this bottling.