NV R & L Legras Presidence Blanc de Blancs Vieilles Vignes

From their best plots of old vines. Four years sur lattes and dosage 5 g/l. Smells like a freshly made apple pie with sour cream. Bold and broad. Baked apple skin, pastry and clotted cream. But it also seems to have acquired a (very attractive) cheesiness on the palate as well as the smoky sweetness of black cardamom. Delicately green fresh-herb bitterness in the linen weight of the finish. I wouldn't serve this broad-shouldered champagne too cold, and it really is one for the table. It's developing beautifully in bottle. (TC)