2016 Keller Dalsheimer Burgel Spätburgunder Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Ripe fresh cherry mingles on the nose with high-toned suggestions of kirsch distillate, accompanied by accents of cardamom and smoky-sweet Madagascar peppercorn. The palate is silken yet animatingly bright and juicy, exhibiting a juxtaposition characteristic of Pinot Noir’s distinctive potential, yet one too often disappointed, especially among German and American exemplars of this grape. The lingering finish is correspondingly clear, invigoratingly spicy and downright refreshing, although I miss the distinctively savory and carnal elements found in the 2015 at this stage. But the present bottling will certainly reward cellar time.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Barrel sample. 28 hl/ha. 20% whole bunch. 60% 2nd-use barrels, 40% 3rd use. Will be bottled in July 2018. Includes some German clones. Muschelkalk soils. Translucent cherry red. The most beautiful red-fruit aroma but there’s also a light spice and a savoury serious character to balance the flirtatious fruit. Luscious red cherry on the palate and so fresh and silky. Utterly gorgeous and elegant. There’s depth and structure but the tannins are so fine that the structure is all hidden by the fruit. Beautifully built and long. Opens in the glass to a more scented, almost floral character, finely fresh. Moreish and complete. The word ‘slender’ comes to mind. Klaus Peter Keller says, ‘For me this is a red Riesling … If you have great land, you don’t need new barrels.’ (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.