2008 Dominio do Bibei MT

The economically entitled 2008 B is the maiden release of a pure Brancellao, a grape marked by its freshness and acidity. It has a fragrant, floral, Pinot Noir-scented bouquet with fresh red currant and raspberry aromas, with a hint of orange zest and crushed roses. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins on the entry. It has fine structure, and though not quite as poised as the MT, it demonstrates fine weight on the finish with hints of spice and white pepper. Very fine. Drink now-2016. Occasionally you have to journey to remote areas in order to reach some of Spain’s finest producers, but the long drive to Dominio do Bibei to meet winemaker Javier Dominguez and his team was certainly worth it. Though winemaking in this part of Ribeira Sacra dates back centuries, the winery is unapologetically modern in design, as each disconnected building dedicated to one part of the vinification process cascades down the gorge. The vines occupy steep loam and clay terraces over granite and slate bedrock that are low in organic material, located between 300 and 670 meters in altitude. Javier came across as a deeply philosophical person with strong tenets about his wines, which exuded great purity and varietal expression, almost Burgundy-like in their tannin profile, but with a little more fruit intensity. What I enjoyed was their precision and symmetry – wines that demand concentration before sitting back and simply enjoying them. Importer: De Maison Selections (USA); www.demaisonselections.com; and Carte Blanche (UK)