2008 Clos Figueras Priorat Clos Figueres

The 2008 Clos Figueres is raised for 13 months in a combination of new and second-fill Allier barriques and casks. It has more definition and restraint on the nose than the 2007 that was tasted alongside and is, frankly, a little over-ripe and alcoholic. A propos the 2008, the terroir shows through with much more clarity and imparts more freshness. The palate is full-bodied and structured with layers of toasty, dark berry fruit with fine underlying mineralite. The wonderfully restrained finish could teach the 2007 some class! Drink 2014-2025. Christopher and Charlotte Cannan have owned Clos Figueras since 1997, after a recommendation by their friend Rene Barbier, who suggested they acquire the first 10-hectare parcel of abandoned terraces just outside Gratallops. This was augmented by a 8-hectare parcel three years later. Apart from the flagship wine, they produce a small amount of white wine aged in stainless steel vat. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com; and Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 667-9300

Opaque ruby. Exotically perfumed bouquet evokes red and dark berries, incense, graphite and smoky herbs, with a sexy floral nuance gaining strength with air. Juicy, penetrating and mineral-driven, with very good depth to its raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Leaves sappy floral pastille and spicecake notes behind on the very long, clinging finish. Plenty rich but this wine shows very good vivacity and clarity.