2009 Robert Eymael-Monchhof Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese

As with the corresponding Spatlese, Eymael's 2009 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese initially displays some fermentative aromatic residues, behind which open up nobly ripe vistas of marzipan; quince and strawberry preserves; and nearly overripe musk melon. Extremely unctuous and viscous on the palate, this lacks (even despite its low alcohol) the sense of lift that lent the corresponding Spatlese a significant part of its appeal. That noted, it is an imposing, long-finishing, formidably-rich Auslese that ought to be worthy of two decades observation during which its nose will clear up short term; its sense of sweetness will back-off long-term; and if all goes well, further complexity will accrue mid-term. Robert Eymael professes to be as taken with the 2009 vintage as are most of his Mosel colleagues. Ironically, his move in the direction of more spontaneous fermentations has slightly handicapped the present collection in its youth, but abstracting from what is a temporary phenomenon, these 2009s can be seen to extend the recent streak of enhanced quality at the Monchhof. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA tel. 800 596 9463