2013 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*** 28

Do you like your Mosel Riesling to taste like a Burgundy? No? Then you'd better leave your hands off the 2013 Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** – at least for the next five or more years. Fermented and aged mainly in new, un-toasted GC barrels of 775 liters from Mercurey (which were dried for three years), the nose is still dominated by brioche and subtle, fresh oak flavors, although I would not say these flavors mask the wine; they just do not allow it to show the fascinating purity of the dry 2013 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese **. However, the emerging lime perfume is absolutely fragrant and makes this the Giorgio Armani under Molitor's dry 2013 Rieslings. Full-bodied and very elegant on the palate, this is a rich, very clear and intense wine with a lingering juiciness and sweet ripeness giving it great aging potential. Indeed, it is even more intense and slightly more sweet than the Auslese **. Keep the three stars for 20 years and take the two stars before.