2012 Domaine Billaud-Simon et Fils Chablis Mont de Milieu Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu Vieilles Vignes comes from 2.93 hectares of 50-year-old vines and sees 15 months in stainless steel. It has a well-defined and outgoing bouquet with scents of white peach, dried apricot and jasmine soaring from the glass. The palate is well-defined with crisp citrus fruit laced with orange rind and a dash of lemongrass and rose water on the finish. Edgy and appealing. Drink 2015-2025. It is confusing having both a Samuel Billaud and a Billaud-Simon producing wines in Chablis, but unfortunately that is the case while the intra-family dispute goes on. One hopes it is resolved sooner rather than later. Charles Louis Noel Billaud established the estate in 1815, thereby making it one of the forefathers of the region. Bernard Billaud returned to the domaine in 1991, whereupon he seized the opportunity to ratchet up the quality by installing a pneumatic press and stainless steel tanks. I have tasted the wines regularly here in the UK and they have always been impressive. For sure, the 2012s were perhaps a little more inconsistent due to the challenges of the growing season. But the grand crus certainly deliver where it matters – in the glass – while I appreciate the premier crus remaining true to their respective terroirs. Post-script: As this report went to print, news filtered through with regard to the sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon to Maison Faiveley, giving them a strong foothold in the region. How this will impact Samuel Billaud remains to be seen, though it clearly thwarts any hopes of him returning to farming the vines that he once tended (wouldn’t it be a twist if Faiveley subsequently appointed him winemaker!). Exact details are yet to emerge, but hopefully all parties can move forward. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(aged for 18 months in 40% futs and 60% stainless steel): A pungent mandarin orange scent is complicated by sexy brown spices and peppermint. Very concentrated and brisk, conveying an almost painful intensity to its yellow fruit and spicy oak flavors. Boasts lovely sweetness but the grilled, vanillin oak flavors still need time to knit with the wine's fruit. Excellent energy here to support a graceful evolution in bottle.