2005 Dominique Laurent Latricieres-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Laurent’s 2005 Latricieres Chambertin Vieilles Vignes smells of blueberry and black raspberry concentrate and bitter florals, displays fine-grained tannins and a bitter-sweet tiny-berried fruit on the palate, and finishes with ravishing polish, elegance and refinement, ineffable mineral elements and subtle meatiness following the concentration of black and blue fruits every sip of the way. There may not be quite the initial impression of richness nor the textural allure as in the Mazis, but this is more subtle and more put-together and sure of itself. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808