2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

A stunning wine, Selbach's 2001 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr** is a study in power, concentration, and intensity. "It tastes just like the finest 1976s did when they were young," said Terry Theise, the estate's importer. Sweet aromas of onions long caramelized in butter, almonds, poached pears, candied apples, Margarita mix, and currants can be found in this beauty's glorious nose. Broad-shouldered, massive, and bulky, it dares the taster to penetrate its dense mass. Smoky notes of botrytis, melons, crisp pears, caramel-covered apples, and a vibrant punch of lemon are found in its thick, yet well-balanced core. Not for the faint at heart, this wine combines the weight of a Beerenauslese with the zest of a Spatlese. Projected maturity: 2010-2030. Johannes Selbach, this estate's winemaker and director (as well as Terry Theise's man-on-the-ground in Germany) is on fire. His wines are top flight and yet his winemaking appears to be improving with each vintage. Readers should note that Selbach's wines typically appear substantially better after a few years of cellaring. I've tried to compensate for that by inserting plus (+) signs by those wines that have the most chance of improving significantly over time. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300