2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese AP 14

The Haags’ auction Spatlese, 2006 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese A.P. #14 – botrytis-free, and from old vines on sheer slate in the former Falkenberg, along with a parcel of young vines selected from those ancient ones – represents a sort of ne plus ultra of vintage weightlessness and elegance. Honeydew melon, white peach, and an alluring hint of red currant mingle on a creamy palate with crystalline mineral nuances. This exhibits rare purity and refinement of fruit essence, subtle nut oil notes, and mysterious liveliness of minerality that you won’t soon forget if you’re lucky enough to latch onto some. I can imagine it performing superbly more than 30 years from now, and no way would anyone be tempted to characterize it as Auslese. Rather, it is a supreme example of Spatlese. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.