2014 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Doosberg Riesling GG

Ripe white peach, zesty fresh lemon, toasted squash seeds, wet stone and high-toned almond extract mingle on a stunningly forceful and multidimensional nose. The rich, expansive midpalate impression is by turns creamy and waxen in texture, dominated by luscious citrus and pit fruits, with toasted walnut and crushed stone serving for low-toned counterpoint and enhancing the resonant, gripping finish. Following in the footsteps of a 2013 that utterly transcended the limitations of its challenging vintage, this 2014 has managed to hold its own, and I wouldn’t be surprised to witness it surpassing that predecessor a few years from now.

The golden-colored 2014 Rheingau Riesling Trocken Oestrich Doosberg VDP Grosse Lage offers a beautifully clear and aromatic, remarkably elegant bouquet of stewed peaches intermixed with delicate spicy flavors. The wine is full-bodied, full of aromas, concentration and vitality; this is a transparent and finessed expression of elegance and complexity. The structure is firm, but almost filigreed and the seductively aromatic finish with its peach and mango flavors is not just very sensual, but indicates a super ripeness and great inner harmony.

Deep straw colour. Funky but not unpleasant nose. Lacks the raciness of most of its peers but it's notably chewy. A controversial wine? (JR)