2011 Qupé Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate

(13% alcohol; all used oak): Pale yellow. Heady orchard and pit fruit scents are complemented by notes of chamomile, sweet butter, honey and lemon curd. Rich, lively and precise, offering bitter pear skin and nectarine flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity and a hint of ginger. Silky and seamless on the long, focused finish, which leaves dusty mineral and citrus pith notes behind. This bottling has a great track record for aging.

The 2011 Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate is a medium-bodied, juicy, fresh and lightly concentrated effort that had me asking, “Where’s the beef?” Showing pretty citrus blossom, poached pears, white flowers and subtle toasty, nutty nuances on the finish, it should be better in another year, but I question how much pleasure this will ever actually deliver. Tel. (805) 937-9801; www.qupe.com

Qupe's 2011 Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate spend 18 months in barrel. Honey, almond, lemon peel and flowers meld together in an oily, textured Roussanne with notable depth. The aromatics aren't yet fully open or expressive, but there is more than enough depth for the 2011 to drink well for at least a few years.