2009 Barrel 27 Syrah Head Honcho

(made mostly from fruit from the Zotovich and Larner vineyards; 15.2% alcohol): Inky ruby. Sexy, perfumed aromas of candied red fruits, incense and Asian spices. Silky and seamless on the palate, displaying vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that gain weight with air. Owner/winemaker McPrice Myers told me that about a third of this fruit was fermented with whole clusters.

Even better, with more structure and tannin, the 2009 Barrel 27 Wine Company Syrah Head Honcho delivers textbook Syrah aromas of spiced-black fruits, roasted meat, licorice, mineral, and pepper. Medium to full-bodied, seamless, and silky, with superb underlying tannic grip and a pleasure bent profile, it will benefit from another year in bottle, and thrill for upwards of 7-8 years.