2005 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

With the 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, we arrive at a new height of intensity, with a concentration of citrus oil and distilled red berry aromas that is liable to cause whiplash. An Eiswein-like brightness and confectionary sweetness ally on the palate with intense strawberry, vanilla, lemon, and intensely pungent brown spices. (If there’s a Wurzgarten for which the description “spice garden”is more appropriate, I haven’t encountered it.) In this Trockenbeerenauslese’s remarkably persistent finish, eau de vie-laced, spiced strawberry jam, vanilla icing, butter cream, and intense, fresh citrus all vie for attention. There are few nobly sweet wines where, as Schug puts it, “nothing is covered over, everything is clear,” but clarity does not guarantee harmony and, as remarkable as this wine is now, time – years and years – will be needed to really even glimpse where it is headed and how it will or will not reconcile its diverse and strident elements. If you are young and want some smug middle-aged anticipation and some probable old-age excitement, salt away a few bottles of this – once Loosen decides to release it. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255