1996 Matanzas Creek Merlot Journey

As longtime readers know, the Journey produced by Matanzas Creek is one of an increasing number of absurdly priced, good yet unexciting California wines. Of course, one can cite many examples from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, and elsewhere that are overpriced, but isn't it time consumers begin saying no to wines that prey on a group of consumers with more discretionary income than taste? There are 235 six-packs of this wine, which has a dark ruby color, as well as earthy, cherry, currant, and herb-tinged aromatics intermixed with toasty new oak. The wine tastes attenuated as well as austere. If my instincts are correct, it is already beginning to drop its fruit. Caveat emptor. This chunky, spicy wine is a bad value at one-third the price. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (800) 590-6464; fax (707) 571-0156