1991 Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

The best of the current three offerings from this winery is the dark ruby/purple-colored 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Although not in the class of the 1984, 1986, or 1987 Reserves, it is a more restrained, understated style of Cabernet than previous efforts. The nose offers a classy concoction of new oak, cassis, vanilla, and spice. Tart (acidified?) and medium-bodied, with good concentration, this wine is well-balanced, understated, and graceful. Forward enough to be drunk now, it should last for 10-12 years. As a big fan of this winery, I expected more intensity and richness in the three offerings reviewed. Although they are above average, none of them possess star quality. Tel. (707) 255-1144