2009 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard

The 2009 Chardonnay Brosseau emerges from the glass with a rich tapestry of lemon, pears, and white flowers. It is texturally striking and totally beautiful for many reasons, not the least of which is its precision and insistent underlying saline notes. The 2009 Brosseau was aged in neutral oak with no stirring of the lees. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

Light yellow. Subtle, mineral-driven aromas of lime, lemongrass and white flowers, with slow-mounting spiciness. Fresh and precise, offering tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors complemented by suave vanilla and spice nuances. Weightier on the very persistent finish, which repeats the lemongrass and spice notes.