2005 Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru

Dureuil’s Rully Vieilles Vignes – assembled from various parcels in excess of 60 years’ vine age – leads with a tart, ripe blackberry – cranberry melange accented by citrus zest and white pepper. A tactile sense of spiciness and zestiness allies itself with fine-grained tannins for an obviously extract-rich, crisply-fruited and slightly hard-edged palate impression. The deep, darkly-fruited and subtly stony finish enhances one’s sense of both the wine’s possibilities (perhaps in 3-5 years) and its relative austerity. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Les Chaliots ($24.00; 86). A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93. Various importers, notably North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266 6585.