2006 Le Brun-Servenay Brut Millésimé Exhilarante Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

The Le Brun-Servenay 2006 Brut Millesime Tresor Exhilarante Vieilles Vignes hits the palate with superb intensity and layers of tightly-coiled minerality. A host of smoke, ash, dried pear and spice gradually open up, but my impression is that the 2006 still needs time, as the acidity and overall structure remain overpowering. Even with further time, though, the 2006 will remain a strapping, broad-shouldered Champagne built on intensity. There is so much to like here. Disgorged August 2014. Dosage was 4 grams/liter.