NV Bugey-Cerdon La Cueille Sparkling Rosé
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Dry, crisp, fresh and incredibly fragrant, this sparkling wine is a terrific bargain. The good news is there are around 4,000 cases of it, although I do not know how much is imported by Kermit Lynch. Drink it over the next year. Kermit Lynch is one of the most meticulous importers in terms of shipping wines properly, but it would be nice to see a vintage, release, or bottling date on these bottles. This cuvee may qualify as the “wine bargain of the year.” A Champagne-like sparkling rose from the largely forgotten area of Bugey (which only received appellation status in 2009), this low alcohol (8%) offering is made from 90% Gamay and 10% Poulsard (an indigenous grape of the region). Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Importer, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Fax (510) 528-7026
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Robert Parker
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
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Like the renditions of Bernard Rondeau (reviewed elsewhere in this issue) and Domaine Renardat-Fache, Patrick Bottex's non-vintage Bugey Cerdon is a deeply pink, -methode ancestrale- sparkling Gamay harboring scarcely more alcohol than the typical beer, and that only a hardened wine snob could resist, much less hate. An unmatchable conglomeration of red and black fruits soars from the glass and floods the palate along with a fine mousse, and a lip-smacking hint of salt and citrus zest in the finish. Keep some on hand in the fridge for enjoying anytime the mood strikes, but buy from a merchant who can vouch for the bottles not having sat anywhere for an appreciable time. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524