2020 Morgen Long Chardonnay Eyrie

The 2020 Chardonnay The Eyrie Vineyards, from vines planted in 1968, was picked on September 19 after smoke from the fires in Willamette Valley cleared and was fermented and matured for around 11 months in oak. "There will be no Eyrie in 2021 or 2022," winemaker Seth Morgen Long says, explaining that after the challenges in 2020, Jason Lett will be using those grapes for The Eyrie Vineyards brand. Interestingly, Long notes, "I made Eyrie from year I gave it the appropriate amount of new oak—which is 100%." It takes plenty of time to unfurl in the glass, from matchstick and almonds to a core of honeycomb, peach, allspice and toast. The medium-bodied palate combines highly concentrated, honeyed fruit set in a satiny texture with tangy acidity and complex mineral tones, and it finishes with lots of energy. Although it feels clean, I would hedge my bets by enjoying this beautiful wine over the next few years. Only 57 half-cases were made.