NV Jean Lallement et Fils Brut Grand Cru

An opportunity arose only a few weeks after tasting the “basic” Brut that Lallement disgorged in May of this year, to compare his NV Brut Disg. 11/2012 of the same base wine; and the considerable difference in shading engendered by time in bottle proved fascinating. The citric elements are toned down here and the alluringly sweet-saline savor or raw scallops is tinged with nut oils and enveloped in a creamy amalgam of baked apple, almond and buckwheat, with toasty and piquant notes complementing the wine’s leesy elements. Not that this bottle lacks for primary juiciness; on the contrary, there are still sap and vivacity by way of citrus, and a bite of musky rose radish adds intrigue as well as invigoration to a superbly sustained finish. Ever since I first tasted the wines of Jean Lallement – just a year before they began reaching our shores – I have considered them to be among Champagne’s finest, and the most recent crop has only compounded my fascination and infatuation. Lallement still sells some of his fruit to a negociant, but as recently reported by his U.S. agent Terry Theise, a window of opportunity for reclaiming that portion foundered on Lallement’s reluctance to take back responsibility for vinifying fruit from as much acreage as was in question. It’s certainly not as though existing supply exceeds demand (in which context the prices asked – dare I mention this? –represent practically a gift). Importers: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The NV Brut Grand Cru is absolutely striking. A big, rich wine, the Brut Grand Cru fills its broad shoulders beautifully, with gorgeous layers of deep, expressive fruit. Sweet floral notes, mint and honey add volume and complexity. The Brut Grand Cru is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, based on the 2009 vintage with the addition of 20% reserve wines. All the elements are in the right place in this superbly crafted wine. Champagne is never inexpensive, but this is easily one of the best wines readers will find in its price range. Disgorgement date: May 16, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The NV Brut is 80% Pinot, 20% Chardonnay composed of 80% 2005 juice and 20% 2004 with 3-5 grams dosage made from north-facing grand cru sites. The wine shows pretty delineation in its aromas and flavors in a fairly straightforward style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Lallement is a small grower based in the village of Verzenay, where Pinot Noir plays the principal role in the wines. The wines are all 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Lallement favors malolactic fermentation and low dosage for his wines. Unfortunately, Lallement does not include disgorgement dates on his labels. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300