2005 Domaine Jean Garaudet Pommard Noizons

From nearly 70-year-old vines, Garaudet’s 2005 Pommard Les Noizons displays aromas of roasted and smoked meats and chalk dust, relatively robust tannins typical for this site, and a rich, solid, low-toned finish. This wine has a habit of aging well for a dozen or more years in good vintages, during which time it can gain considerable nuance. But a certain grainy rusticity can be expected to persist. Jean Garaudet has sold his domaine, as he has no children interested in carrying on. But the new owner will retain him as a consultant beginning with this year’s harvest. Garaudet – who still does things the old fashion way, including genuine foot-treading of the cap, and whose wines are often a touch rustic but surprisingly good keepers – has been the source of many excellent Burgundy values over the years, and 2005 is no exception. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.