2004 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay Sonoma Valley

Lemon drop, mint, flowers and hay on the nose. Lively apple and pineapple fruit framed by firm acidity. The strategy here is to make fruit-forward wines unsullied by oakiness. In fact, only about 60% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, and it spent just six months in one-third new French oak. (A second bottle of the same chardonnay seemed distinctly tart and hard-edged.)