2011 Ultramarine Blanc De Blancs

The 2011 Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Late Disgorged (disgorged in April of 2019) is restrained and flinty on the nose to begin before opening to tones of crème fraîche and lemon pith. The light-bodied palate is dry and creamy, yet its tangy acidity and salty flavors give it an electric feel that drives the finish. Although it has lots of freshness, it doesn't offer the flavor concentration to improve in bottle, so drink it over the next 3-5 years.

All the elements come together in the 2011 Blanc de Blancs Charles Heintz Vineyard, a wine of such beauty I have a hard time describing it. There are simply no parallels in California. Fermentation in barrel gives the Heintz lovely texture and voluptuousness, yet the wine is not at all heavy, it just has a hint of Vilmart-like toastiness. Most importantly, the pedigrees of this site - one of the best in Sonoma - comes through with great eloquence. Cruse also shows he has conquered what is perhaps the biggest challenge in making sparkling wine - creating an elegant mousse. It is hardly a surprise other producers seek him out for advice. Readers who can find the 2011 should not hesitate, as it is truly superb.