2007 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett

Marine language remains very appropriate for the Schaefer 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett A.P. #9, which delivers not just a tangy whiff of the sea to accompany its apple blossom, clover, and honeydew melon, but also an irresistible, invigorating, saline, sweet, bay scallop-like savor that left me salivating uncontrollably. The spring-fed Himmelreich, opines Schaefer, is especially conducive to stress-free and gradual ripening, with concomitant extract and high, ripe acidity, all of which seems to apply in spades to 2007. No wonder this Kabinett was served last. I’m not sure I’ll outlive it, but those who can ought to contemplate saving some for 25 years from now. Just make sure you have lots for in-between, too! Willi Schaefer and Christoph harvested until mid-November. “There wasn’t any botrytis until the end of October,” relates Schaefer senior, “and what little botrytis there was, was clean.” Some of the excitement here, though, comes at the light end of the Oechsle scale. This year’s Schaefer Kabinetts represent outstanding values. But more than that, they display by turns delicacy and density, jewel-like intricacy and simplicity, elective affinity for our appetites and mystery, such as only a great work of nature confers. And if you prefer that they taste less sweet, just don’t start drinking them before they reach age ten! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300