2005 Can Blau Mas de Can Blau

The 2005 Mas de Can Blau is a blend of 35% Carinena, 35% Syrah, and 30% Garnacha with the Garnacha and Carinena ranging in age from 65-85 years. Malolactic fermentation occurred in barrel and the wine was aged in new French oak for 20 months before being bottled unfiltered. Purple-colored, it reveals a complex, sophisticated perfume of toast, slate, smoke, espresso, black cherry, and blueberry. This leads to a wine with a full-bodied personality, layers of flavor, gobs of fruit, and a pure, lengthy finish. It will be at its best between 2013 and 2025. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767

35% Mazuelo, 35% Syrah, 30% Garnacha. Absurdly big, heavy bottle – I needed two hands to pick it up and pour. At least the cork has benefited from the same lavish budget as the bottle. Richly perfumed and aromatic: sweet oak, ripe fresh dark fruit and floral notes. Thick and rounded on the palate but much fresher and more minerally underneath than I had expected. A tight framework, very concentrated, yet balanced and perfumed right to the lingering end. At 15% the alcohol can be felt at the end but it is just about balanced by the density and aromatic purity of the fruit. (JH)