2022 00 Wines Pinot Noir Stardance
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Coming from Yamhill-Carlton, the 2022 Pinot Noir Stardance pours a bright/ruby color and is highly perfumed, though slightly reductive, which dissipates with some air. It reveals a wonderfully floral bouquet, with potpourri, preserved strawberries, fresh leather, and fresh sage. Medium-bodied, the palate offers a refreshing spine of acidity, fine tannins, and a delicate, sanguine, iron-noted finish. It warrants decanting if opening soon and is deserving of another couple of years in bottle. Drink 2026-2046. Now in their tenth vintage, 00 Wines has expanded to an annual production of 5,000 cases in Oregon and includes their wines from both Burgundy and Champagne, which are featured in this report. Founded by husband-and-wife duo Katherine and Christopher Hermann, they exclusively produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They derived the name “00” from numerology and say it represents true and absolute potential. Their first vintage was in 2015, and in 2017, they relocated to a shared winemaking facility that they currently operate out of. Katherine takes charge of the creative direction with packaging and communications. Her background in marketing led her to New York City and Boulder, Colorado, where she worked for technology startups before arriving in the Willamette Valley. Before establishing 00 Wines, Christopher served as a legal advisor for nearly 40 years to many of the top names in the wine and spirits industry, specializing in environmental law. They are inspired by the great wines of Burgundy and implement many Burgundian techniques, guided by their consultant, Pierre Millemann, and their winemaker, Wynne Peterson-Nerdry.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Erin Brooks, Wine Advocate
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The 2022 Pinot Noir Stardance is a new bottling from 00 Wines. “It usually goes into the VGR,” proprietor Christopher Hermann says, “but in 2022, it was special on its own.” Planted in 2003 on the western side of the Yamhill-Carlton appellation near the coast range, the Pommard vines are own-rooted, unirrigated and biodynamically farmed. The vineyard is located on an east-facing slope that runs from 300 to 550 feet of elevation and the soils are Peavine, an unusual silty clay loam series. In the winery, the grapes were destemmed by hand, and whole berries were fermented in 500-liter terracotta amphorae from Tuscany. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 18 months. The Stardance has open-knit, inviting aromas of cranberry, raspberry, hibiscus, bitter orange and amaro, releasing nuances of spice and mushroom as it spends time in the glass. The medium-bodied palate offers concentrated, crunchy flavors delivered in a silky texture. It’s enlivened by succulent acidity and has a very long, nuanced finish. 1,200 bottles were produced.
Dusty and floral, the 2022 Pinot Noir Stardance opens with a coy blend of flowery underbrush and ashen stone before evolving with notes of lavender, green olive and exotic spice. This is silken and seamless, savory as well, with waves of tart wild berry fruits that swirl across a steady stream of brisk acidity and a saline mineral thrust to punctuate it all. A coating of fine tannins frames the finish but doesn’t get in the way. The Stardance leaves notes of licorice and tart blackberry that keep the mouth watering for more. The 2022 is just a baby today with a bright future ahead of it. Fantastic.