2009 Copain Syrah Brosseau Vineyard

The 2009 Syrah Brosseau is once again the biggest of the Copain Syrahs. Dark and inky through to the center, the wine shows notable intensity and richness in its pure dark fruit. Graphite, minerals, incense and spices are some of the many notes that develop as the wine builds on the big, dramatic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

Deep and rich, with solid ripeness, the 2009 Copain Syrah Brosseau is a beauty that shows a healthy dose of black and blue fruits, tar, crushed rock, and candied violet like characteristics on the nose. Dense and concentrated on the palate, with perhaps the most flesh of any of the wines in the lineup, this medium+ bodied Syrah has a round, supple texture, beautiful balance and freshness, and ample length on the classically styled finish. This can be consumed now or cellared for a decade.

Glass-staining purple. Intensely perfumed floral nose displays black and blue fruit and Indian spice aromas and a strong note of violet. Deeply pitched, pliant flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and candied flowers, with a hint of bitter chocolate on the back end. The finish features chewy tannins, excellent energy and good peppery, spicy lift. This wine improves a lot with air so decant it if you plan on drinking it young.