2009 Copain Pinot Noir Wentzel Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Wentzel emerges from the glass with heady dark cherries, spices, licorice and new leather. This is one of the more textured 2009s Pinots at Copain. Waves of fruit flow effortlessly to the long, pure finish. The Wentzel is slightly closed at present, but it shows fabulous length and should drink beautifully once the layers of flavor flesh out over time. The finish remains totally soft and inviting. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

Vivid red. Sexy aromas of candied red fruits, dried rose, allspice and minerals, with a suave oak spice nuance and a hint of candied orange. Sappy and broad on entry, then more tangy and linear in the mid-palate, with a firm mineral underpinning to its sweet raspberry and cherry flavors. Picks up a deeper cherry pit quality with air and finishes with strong grip and persistent tangy florality. This should age well.