2011 Wind Gap Pinot Gris Windsor Oaks Vineyard

(fermented in concrete eggs and raised in a combination of concrete and neutral French oak, with 80% of the fruit macerated on its skins for just over 60 days; 12.4% alcohol): Light, bright orange-pink. Intense redcurrant and orange zest scents, with a hint of white pepper adding vivacity. Dry and tightly focused on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering juicy citrus fruit and red berry flavors and a silky texture. Closes at length, on a bright, nervy note.

The 2011 Pinot Gris Windsor Oaks Vineyards is eccentric, beguiling and loaded with character. Dried rose petals, crushed flowers, spices and sweet red cherries all make an appearance. The Pinot Gris will require an adventurous palate, but it is beautiful. Readers willing to take the plunge are likely to find much to admire in this immensely pleasing, gratifying wine. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. This is another exciting, captivating set of wines from Wind Gap and Pax Mahle. Readers who have not yet discovered Wind Gap owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most gorgeous, nuanced wines being made in California today. Mahle continues to experiment with concrete and larger casks, both of which seem ideally suited to a minimalist approach that seeks to draw out the maximum expression of each of these sites. The Wind Gap wines achieve that elusive balance of depth without excess heaviness. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the range I tasted and can't recommend these wines highly enough. Tel. (707) 887-9100