2016 Köfererhof Sylvaner R

The 2016 Sylvaner R is produced from old vines planted in 1985, harvested about two weeks later than usual and fermented on the lees in a combination of Acacia cask and stainless steel for six months. It’s deeply alluring from the first tilt of the glass with an exotic display of sweet spices, dried peaches and mango, then turning more toward the savory spectrum with dusty dried flowers and white smoke. It’s soft and enveloping, balancing power and density with savory tension, as tropical citrus and yellow stone fruits are offset by an attractive hint of honied florals. The textures here are amazing, especially with the amount of energy found within. There’s a nutty richness that lingers, but the endnote here is unmistakably fresh and balanced. Of note is that the Sylvaner R performed better at cellar temp than when it was chilled.