1999 Ca' del Bosco Vendemmia

The 1999 Franciacorta Cuvee Brut is a good introduction to the house style in its balanced presentation of fresh, yeasty aromas, ripe white and citric fruits, and the crispness and energy of its mouth-cleaning flow. Maurizio Zanella, the founder of Ca’ de Bosco, has won a large group of admirers for what he has accomplished over the past quarter of a century, but has also attracted a certain number of detractors who object to what they consider his excessive flamboyance and vaulting ambition. I am an unambiguous member of the first party, and consider his sparkling wines the finest expression of what Italy can do in this field, worthy competitors to fine French Champagne.