2001 Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco

The 2001 Sagrantino-based wines of the estate are notably different than those of the powerhouse 2000 vintage, probably the best in the history of the property, even if 1998 offers some stiff competition. The difference is immediately felt in the 2001 Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano, the regular bottling (to use an inappropriate phrase), fragrant, expansive, and long on the nose but already suppler, rounder, and readier on the palate than the 2000 version of the wine, even if it will easily last another decade. Marco Caprai, the young entrepreneur who created a name and a market for the wines of Montefalco in Umbria all by himself, has a lot more company in the zone than when he started, a period in which Sagrantino was considered a grape for dessert wines and little else. Not that he has all that much to worry about – he started working on his vineyards over 15 years ago, when everyone else was asleep at the switch, and he also enjoyed the not inconsiderable advantage of the services of consulting winemaker Attilio Pagli. About this professional, whose name is too little known outside of Italy, the only thing I wish to say is that no Italian oenologist has given me more pleasure with his wines over the last 20 years, starting with the superb 1985 Brunello di Montalcino of Giulio Salvioni, made when Pagli was a mere 22 years old. Importer: Villa Italia, San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060